The most common  error is selecting a bow that does not suit your DOMINANT EYE. YOU MUST HAVE  THIS CHECKED BY THE CLUB OR PRO-SHOP BEFORE PURCHASING A NEW BOW. Just because you are right or left handed does not mean that a right or left handed bow is  the right one to suit your dominant or aiming eye. This can be easily checked at the club.

General  selection information	Selecting a  youth bow
Internet links	Selecting Bow Weight

SELECTING A YOUTH BOW

When outfitting young shooters it is best to use club  equipment while young archers develop skills, perfect technique and accuracy whilst using a recurve bow.  When they express an interest in learning more about archery and look like making it their chosen sport it is at this  point that it is wise to buy a good youth sized compound bow especially  designed for a young person's physique and frame.
SOME OF THE TERMS USED BELOW ARE DESCRIBED IN MORE DEPTH IN THE SECTION ON GENERAL INFORMATION

A Compound Bow

A Recurve Bow

Draw weights: There are really two levels of youth bows. First  are the entry-level models and second are upgrades for the young person who has  proven a serious interest in the sport. In the first category, keep the draw weight very low. Fifteen to twenty pounds is more than enough for most children  under age 10, These should be extremely short and lightweight bows because the muscle development on these young people isn't sufficient to handle a bow that  weighs much more than 1 ½ to 2 pounds.

In the second category, bows designed for more experienced archers, or first bows for young teen-agers, with draw weights in the range of 25 to 45 pounds. Bows of 50 pounds and over are best left to strong-framed young people (probably boys) over the age of 14 or 15.

Draw length: The ideal bow will grow with the child. It should have a modular or highly adjustable draw length system. This will help the  parent who has to make the bow fit a fast-growing body or adjust the bow later  for other children.

Mass weight: Youth bows should be light to carry and easy to hold at full draw. A heavy bow is difficult to aim at low draw weights. Very  light bows in the range of two pounds or less are great for starters. Bows  weighing more are acceptable for upgrades.

Axle-to-axle length: Again, bows sized for children are the  only choice. Axle-to-axle lengths of less than 35 inches are preferable. The  best starter bows for young shooters will be closer to 30 inches in length.

Grip size: The proper youth bow should have a small grip to  accommodate the small hands of young shooters. If the grip fits your hand it's  too large for a child.

 TECH TOPIC: Bow Weight Information

Rule 17 - National Barebow Round (and the sighted division as well)
Particular attention is to be given to bow weights used by Juniors and Cubs, and where any Junior or Cub is considered to be unable to effectively control his or her bow, because of weight factors, the matter is to be discussed with the Junior or Cubs parents.

It shall be at the absolute discretion of the Shoot Director whether bow weight shall be reduced, or a lighter bow is to be used, or whether the member involved is permitted to continue shooting. A minimum test of ability to control bow weight shall be to hold the bow at full draw for ten seconds.

The bow shall not be drawn more than 20 degrees above the horizontal when pointed at the target whilst the bow is drawn and the back should remain straight.

In AA you must draw your bow facing the target in a flat line parallel to the ground if you don't a judge will disqualify you end of story pack up your gear and hit the road.
Its an excellent rule if you accidently release the arrow it should be in a direct line with the target so fairly safe. This is even more important when shooting in field rounds as these people could be pointing the arrow at someone on another target.
Muscles, particularly in young men, are capable of being strong enough to damage the joints and bones of children. Worse still, if an injury is sustained, there is the risk that the injury will impair the ability for the joint or bone to correctly develop, putting into risk the ability for the child to continue shooting as an adult. So the bottom line is to go very easy on the poundage.

A quick and easy test you can apply is to get you junior to stand facing you with his feet TOGETHER raise the bow arm and push out to holding position, then ask him to draw and anchor.
*Does he draw across his chest.
*Does he move his feet apart for more leverage.
*Does he grunt groan or grimace.
*can he even pull the bow back.
If the answer is yes to any of the first 3 or no to the last he is trying to draw too much weight.
A juniors bones muscles tendons are still growing and moving into place at this age and beyond, so he needs to be told,if there are coaches in the club they should be picking this up and making adjustments, also his parents should be told.

Serious permanent damage can result to the Rotator Cuff muscle group preventing archery in the future.

Selecting a Draw Weight

There are several factors to consider here, beyond just brute strength.  First and foremost, we strongly recommend that you choose a draw weight that is COMFORTABLE for you and suitable for your particular purpose.  Particularly for the purposes of recreational archery, a bow with too much draw weight will simply make you less successful and the sport less enjoyable.  A good rule-of-thumb is to choose a draw weight that requires about 75% of your "maximum" strength.  If your bow is too heavy, and you can only shoot a few times before you're fatigued, then you'll be reluctant to practice and improve your game.  But you also want your bow to shoot with as much speed and power as possible, so you shouldn't choose too little weight either.  Again, the right balance between comfort and performance - for YOU - will probably be at your "75%" mark. 
Heavy Draw Weights
 

If drawing your new bow makes you appear to be on the verge of a hemorrhage, it's unlikely you're going to enjoy the sport.  While most of us understand the importance of preserving machismo, the truth is, shooting too much draw weight won't provide any benefits at all.  Some compound bows are actually available up to a 100# draw weight.  And while there may be some specific applications where such a bow may be necessary (African big-game hunting perhaps), for the vast majority of bowhunting and recreational archery applications, a super-heavyweight bow is completely unnecessary (commonly referred to as being "over-bowed"). 
All things in Moderation
However, you may not want to choose an excessively light draw weight either (being "under-bowed").  Heavier draw weights will undoubtedly yield better kinetic energy (penetration) and quicker arrow velocities with less parabolic arc in flight. 
The "archery muscles" used to draw a bow are primarily large muscle groups in your upper back (the same muscles you use to row a boat or pull-start a lawn mower).  Most people don't specifically work to exercise these muscles.  So you will probably find that once you do put them to work, your "archery muscles" will gain strength quickly and drawing your bow will become easier over time.  Fortunately, most bows come with at least 10 lbs. of draw weight adjustment.  So if you are a new shooter, you may wish to begin with your bow set at a lower draw weight - and gradually "crank-up" the draw weight as you become more conditioned.
General Recommendations
Here are some general guidelines for choosing an appropriate draw weight.  Of course, each individual is different.  You should apply your common sense here and interpret this chart with due respect to your own age, general physical condition, and Body Mass Index (BMI).

Recommended Draw Weight Ranges (Modern Compound Bows)

Very Small Child (25-32 kg.)           10-15 lbs. Small Child (32-45 kg.)                    15-25 lbs. Larger Child (45-59 kg.)                   25-35 lbs. Small Frame Women (45-59 kg.)      25-35 lbs. Medium Frame Women (59-72 kg)  30-40 lbs. Athletic Older Child (Boys 59-68 kg.) 40-50 lbs. Small Frame Men (54-68 kg.)            45-55 lbs. Large Frame Women (72+ kg.)          45-55 lbs. Medium Frame Men (68-82 kg.)       55-65 lbs Large Frame Men (82+ kg.)              65-75 lbs.

Note:  Not all bows are created equal regarding draw weights.  High-performance compound bows with hard-cams and high IBO speeds will "feel" as if they are heavier, since the bow's powercurve is more aggressive (ramping to peak weight more quickly and letting-off later).  Bows with round-wheels or soft-draw cams will similarly "feel" a little lighter, as the bow's powercurve is smoother and more gradual.

 General Information on how to buy a Compound Bow

Archery goes back thousands of years but today's equipment has made  remarkable advances. Selecting a bow depends on a variety of factors. But the tried-and-true advice is to find something that fits your ability and needs. Ask our club members for advice and seek advice from a specialist Archery store. Make certain you buy a bow for your dominant eye.

• Compound bows and construction
• Cams
• Type of cams
• Soft cam
• Aggressive cam
• Single cam
• Limb material and style
• Types of risers
• Riser materials
• How to choose a bow
• Speed
• Bow length
• Draw weight
• Draw length

Compound bows and  construction

Cams

• An eccentric system on a typical compound is made up of a string, one or two wheels (or cams) and two harnesses
• This system resembles a teeter-totter, with the  harnesses and strings moving to balance two kids of unequal weight.  This then makes it easier to pull and keep the bow's limbs flexed at full draw.
• A speed wheel helps you accomplish this  action faster
• Beginners may benefit from a two-wheel system because it helps improve accuracy with less tuning
• The cam also controls how quickly you get up to the  full draw cycle and how much energy is stored

Types of cams

• Soft cam
• A soft cam allows you to pull back in a softer, smoother fashion
• This helps you aim better, a plus whether you're target shooting or  hunting game
• It also gives less energy to the shot
• Aggressive cam
• If you plan on using your bow for hunting you should consider an aggressive cam
• This provides more energy in the draw cycle that provides valuable penetration for your arrow, which may help you greatly on marginal hits
• Single cam
• Offer a big advantage over two cam bows
• A two cam bow relies on both cams staying in synch
• A number of factors from stretching over time to heat can affect this, which will then lead to poor arrow flight
• The single cam bow has nearly eliminated the problem with stretching.  Most will stay tuned forever.
• If you plan to use your bow for hunting, single cams are also considered quieter

Limb material and style

• Standard/Split
• Today's limbs come in either a standard or split configuration
• The standard limb has been around a long time. This basically is a one-piece construction that is often laminated or molded.
• Split limbs are relatively new and are, as the name suggests, two pieces
• There are two advantages in this construction
• Lightens the weight of the bow
• Usually quiets the bow
• Carbon/Fiberglass
• Carbon/Fiberglass limbs are the preferred choice of most compound bow  manufacturers
• This mixture gives you greater flexibility and strength while keeping  the bow's weight down

Types of risers

Risers, the part of the bow that you grip, come in two primary versions--flex  or reflex. The main difference is how the hands are positioned to the bowstring. A reflex riser is slower but is more forgiving to shoot.

• Riser materials
• Cast aluminum
• This is simply a riser made from aluminum poured into a specially  designed mold
• Machined aluminum
• Machined risers are much more practical to manufacture and have become very popular
• The advantage is that the machined riser can be  anodized, which means the paint will wear a lot better than that on a cast handle
• Magnesium
• Magnesium risers are heavier than machined aluminum risers but they  are cheaper to make and usually quieter
• These variations are harder to find

How to choose a bow

There are a number of factors involved in determining which bow is right for your hunting style, size and strength.

Speed

• Measuring speed
• How quickly an arrow flies to its target depends on several factors, but it's important to understand speed first
• The Archery Manufacturers Association (AMO) tests each bow set at 60 pounds for a 30-inch draw using a 540-grain arrow. This then lets you compare the relative speed of the arrow of various bows. For example, an AMO  speed of 235 means the arrow is propelled at 235 feet per second.
• The International Bowhunting Organization (IBO) also began measuring speed but uses different conditions, namely a lighter arrow, so IBO speeds  are much higher
• Most bow manufacturers will list both AMO and IBO speeds for comparison
• The importance of speed
• Speed is critical in one primary area--it flattens trajectory. The faster the speed, the less drop over the same  distance.
• But super-fast bows are more difficult to shoot
• Most experts suggest bows that have moderate AMO speeds of 235-245 (or IBO speed rating of 290-305)
• Actual speed needs depend on how you are going to use the bow

Bow length

• A bow's length is critical for both your maneuverability and weight
• Maneuverability is especially important if you hunt since you need to  swing into position quickly while avoiding limbs that may ruin your shot
• Measured from axle-to-axle, the shorter the bow, the lighter the weight, which may be important if you plan on hiking through the woods
• The longer the bow, the more stable
• Today's short bows (32 inches) aren't practical if you're an inexperienced or infrequent bow shooter
• A good idea for beginners is to compromise between a 46-inch heavy compound and the accuracy with a 32-inch lighter compound bow. Try something in the mid-range.
• When in doubt go for accuracy and select a longer bow
• When buying for a youngster, look at the youth models to ensure a better fit

Draw weight

• Draw weight is the amount of actual peak weight you pull as the string is  being drawn back before letting off
• Compound bows have helped immensely in increasing a bow's draw weight
• For most adults, a draw weight between 50-70 pounds is recommended
• Youngsters need much lower draw weights
• Look for youth models with adjustable draw weights and lengths
• When you receive your bow, see if you can draw it and hold it for 15-30  seconds without shaking. If you can it is the proper draw weight for you.

Draw length

• A properly sized bow has to fit your arms. But don't get caught short. The longer you can draw back the bow, the more speed you'll get in your arrow.
• Determining your draw length
• Measure the distance between your nose facing forward and the centre of your palm with outstretched arm (1 inch = 25  mm)

Internet link: Some excellent resources on selection of equipment that suits your needs can be found on the following site

 huntersfriend.com/bowselection